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William Finnegan: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (2015, Penguin Press) 4 stars

Review of 'Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life' on 'Goodreads'

5 stars

This is good reading. My sister sent this to me for Christmas, and I'm stoked she did. One of the best things I've read in the past year, this was surprising, consistently engaging, fun, thought provoking, each sentence focused and sharp. This book made me re-look at my own existence and life trajectory. Highly recommended.